Ref. Remanufactured Parts/Items.
#1
Gentlemen,

I have looked into the reproduction of (amongst other things) the rear light required - in the classified/wanted posting by K. Hunter - using Brass and/or stainless steel.

The tooling costs for a complete unit are around £1000, therefore with the possible sale volume (being very low) it would not be a viable proposition.

It's the same with a lot of other parts such as, Other Light units, Hub caps, Ribbed Bumper bars, Door Handles. Window Winders to name a few.
It all comes down to how many are required to keep item at a reasonable price.
That does not mean to say the item cannot be repaired though.

Even the items on my website are only "at cost" in their financial returns, there is no profit, except when sold to non members and then 10-15% is put on.

I have just repaired a R type Cast Iron block. After tracing the cracks the eventual area ended up as in a 12" x 4.5" hole on the side of the block.
It has been welded and plated, over a period of two months. There is no way all the hours can be applied to the cost as it would be astronomical.

I guess I'm not a business man!
Regards.
Chas.

A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity. A optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#2
Hey Chas,

I knew you were chasing rods, but you did not mention wanting a block.

I have several 20/60 R Type blocks, all in good condition, including a BRAND NEW R75 Block. (the second hand ones would need bore and/or hone to size but no cracks, does not get that cold over here!)

I guess it is a bit late now but for future reference.

Leigh.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#3
Leigh,

After stripping the engine it was obvious that the Con rods were not going to be reusable,so in the end I went for new being made here in UK.
Block was re-bored and pressure tested.
That's when we found two lateral cracks. One at top and one at bottom of water jacket.
Plus after extensive crack testing the area between the two lateral cracks had a web of fine cracks.

I did remember you mentioning you had blocks when I contacting you about rods.
Adding up costs as in block purchase, Shipping, then work on block outweighed the repair costs.

As you know Cold welding Cast is a slow process, hence the two months (couple of hours a day) but it's all good now.

As regards the oil filter I was looking for, I will have to make one as this would accommodate the extra oil way and valves for the conversion to a 'full flow' system.
Regards.
Chas.

A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity. A optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#4
Fair enough! I know shipping is not cheap but still I think I would opt to rebuild a good block as an alternative to a repaired one.

I recently got my R Type sedan back on the road (rebuilt motor) and am having some concerns with oil pressure. The original manual states "a minimum of 5 psi at 20 mph". I have approx 35psi when first started and this drops to 18 - 20 psi while driving at normal temperature . I have fitted slipper bearings instead of the original whitemetal. The engine builder thinks this would be fine for whitemetal but is a little low for shells. He checked the oil pump and assures me that it is in excellent condition. He thinks the alloy body is "growing" when it gets hot and thus lowering the oil pressure due to increased clearances. I know this to be a problem with several 20/60's over here.

Do you know of an alternative to the original oil pump which will give me better pressure, perhaps a VX Cadet one will fit?

I welcome any suggestions.

Leigh.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#5
Leigh,

Are you using a Monograde  SAE 30W or 40W oil?

I have not worked on the oil pump for this engine apart from stripping.
It's cracked at the side webbings on both sides of the manifold area, plus pretty well worn on head plate, so will have to make a new one.
Have not decided on material or form as yet. 
I guess alloy was used due to the complexity of casting incorporating pump and manifold in one.
The manifold will be a separate item when conversion is done.

Have checked out a few other pumps as a possible replacement but nothing suits as yet.

I do not think the expansion of housing is a cause of pressure drop. It will expand a bit being alloy but it is held in position pretty tight.
If wear is a factor, I have found it's usually gear end float, as in casting and head plate wear - top and bottom of gear clearance, or misalignment.
Regards.
Chas.

A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity. A optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#6
Chas, the pump was totally gone through, plates were refaced and end float adjusted. All the 20/60's I have had experience with have the same basic symptom, good oil pressure when cold and drops off as engine temp rises.

I was running Penrite HPR30 (20w60) which I have used in other Vauxhalls with good motors without problem, including the 14/40. I am now on a Penrite Monograde 50 oil which has upped the pressure by a few psi but not quite enough to be completely happy.

I can still go to a heavier oil but I think I am only getting around the problem and not fixing it. Regards the housing growing that possibility was brought up by both the engine builder (a vintage engine expert) and an oil specialist at Penrite at different times. I fear I might be going down the make a new pump to feed the original manifold path as well.

Leigh.
Reply
Thanks given by:


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)